Art Advisory Services hosted Atelier E.B. (Lucy McKenzie and Beca Lipscombe), Panel (Catriona Duffy and Lucy McEachan) and tailor Steven Purvis and launched “Inventors of Tradition,” a clothing line of high-quality wovens, knitwear, workwear and accessories. The project took as its subject the history of the Scottish textile industry post-1930s, and the clothing was made in collaboration with established manufacturers such as Mackintosh, Begg Scotland and McRostie of Glasgow, among others. Guests braved an early October blizzard to try on garments and discuss production and design with the group. In conjunction with the project, Thea and Ethan published a limited edition Look Book and a limited edition boxed set: http://twaas.com/publications/.

Atelier was formed in 2007 by the fashion designer Beca Lipscombe, illustrator Bernie Reid, both living in Edinburgh, and fine artist Lucy McKenzie, originally from Glasgow, based in Brussels. The company was founded to bring fine art criticality to the realm of commercial design and by extension apply the expertise and practicality of the applied arts to exhibition and object making.

Now consisting solely of Lipscombe and McKenzie, their work to date includes commissions for public and private spaces, temporary and permanent display, design objects and publishing. Specifically suited to each context, everything is realised with modest and often traditional techniques executed by the artists themselves and local industry. They use a variety of media; draped fabric, decorative painting such as marbled and wood grained faux finishes, silk-screen and digital printing and stenciled motifs.

Conceptually, the partnership is rooted in a common interest in artisan and specialised production, especially in the vernacular, applied in challenging and inventive ways. They have recently produced their first fashion collection which is available to buy through a series of showrooms this year.

The collection has been developed as a part of the recent research project The Inventors of Tradition, which explored created notions of national identity through the lens of the Scottish fashion and textile industry since the 1930s and the idea that quality has become synonymous with ‘traditional’. Atelier’s first collection extends their research into reality and celebrates what is possible within Scottish industry today.

Their collaborators are some of the most established manufacturers still producing in Scotland today including Mackintosh, Caerlee Mills, McRostie of Glasgow, Hawick Cashmere, Begg Scotland and Janette Murray Handknits.
Together with tailor Steven Purvis, Lucy McKenzie has designed a capsule collection of artist’s work coats, inspired by historical models that are practical and beautiful. Beca Lipscombe presents a selection of high quality cashmere and purewool knitwear and wovens to be worn in combination with the work coats. Her contemporary take on the classic arran jumper, where the knit is loose enough to reveal naked skin underneath, sums up her approach to design perfectly; responding to tradition with a sensuous and independent femininity.

A selection of accessories and two raincoats designed exclusively with Mackintosh complete the collection. The Viennese hat manufacturer Muehlbauer, family owned since 1903, have produced several hats to accompany the raincoats, which along with a leather bag, leather belts, cashmere woven scarves and jewelry create a striking collection. Striking not only in its craftsmanship and unique production ethos but in its proposal of elegant self-respect in dress for working life.

A sample collection of the garments will be presented, for sale, within Art Advisory Services’ showroom from 27th October to 30th October 2011. This ‘pop-up’ Showroom, designed by the artists, will offer customers the opportunity to try on garments and to discuss sizing, colour, material, production methods and the design process with a dedicated sales-person.